Sonntag, 2. November 2014

Via Ferrata international gradings

Gradings, difficulty levels and scales about Via Ferratas and Topos


In this post I will talk about difficulty levels and how to understand the gradings. 
In Europe there are different kind of gradings. I will try to explain them to you.
Just as rock climbing routes a Via Ferrata is graded with the crux. That means, the most difficult part is influential for the complete Via Ferrata route. But this also can lead to over- or underestimation.

Therefore you should try to find a Topo of your target to evaluate the total requirements for yourself.
In this post I will give you a short example. In a further post I will talk concretely about Topo's.

In the following table I will show you the most common Via Ferrata scales:

comparison of Via Ferrata difficulty levels and scales
comparison of Via Ferrata difficulty levels and scales



As you can see in the table, Italy and Spain have with "MD" difficulties in the easier levels as well in the more difficult ones. In the easier area "MD" means media difficolta, in the harder levels molto (italian) or muy (spanish). At the entrances and signs at the Via Ferrata route itself they are usually written-out.

Other scales

There is also a scale from a german publisher. But this one is identic with the Hüsler-Skala. The difficulties are only named as KS instead of K.

A german website (unfortunately only available in german) about Via Ferratas grades from 1 (easy) to 6 (extreme), but in 0.5-steps.

The "Schall-Skala" from Kurt Schall from Austria is international the most common usage of grading. In my opinion the most comprehensive grading is the Hüsler-Skala from Eugen Hüsler. He is not only using the crux, he is using a cross which also grades experience, strength, condition and courage/psyche/exposure.

Sometimes there are valuations like C+ and D- instead of using C/D. In my humble opinion it is a kind of confusion, but we all have to live with that.

Scales for not assured passages

Beside the scales for Via Ferratas you may find not assured parts in a route.
They could be scaled up to the III. grade (UIAA). 

The complete description about the different international scales of rock climbing you can find at wikipedia. Here I will only describe the possible climbing grades, which may appear in a Via Ferrata route:

I (UIAA): It is a bit more than only hiking area. You need your hands as a support to come further. Head for heights is necessary.

II (UIAA): Moderate difficulties. Real climbing starts here. (in my experience in a Via Ferrata route there are only very shorts passages)

III (UIAA) Experienced climbers could do this difficulties without rope security. Others should be definetly protected by rope.

A short description of a Topo and how to evaluate


Well, as I told you before, the crux is the most difficult part of a route. But that also does not always mean, a "D"graded Via Ferrata is harder than a "C" graded one.

I will give you an example with Topo's of the Drachenwand Klettersteig at the Mondsee and the Attersee Klettersteig at the Attersee. Both Via Ferratas are only 7.5 miles (12 km) away from each other. The Drachenwand Klettersteig is very popular and you can't expect to be alone there. The Attersee Klettersteig is also not a sleeper anymore, but there are not so much people like the other one.

Okay, let's get back to the topic. Here are the Topo's of both routes:

Attersee Klettersteig (Via Ferrata) Topo
Attersee Klettersteig Topo



Drachenwand Klettersteig (Via Ferrata) Topo
Drachenwand Klettersteig Topo


So, what do you think? Which one is harder?

Well, in my opinion, they are almost the same, if you only see the difficulty level. Why? 

The Attersee Klettersteig has only 2 very short parts with difficulty of "D". The rest is similar to the Drachenwand. Only the easy parts like "A" and "B". 

A kind of difference is to see is in the length of height: Attersee Klettersteig is 660 ft (200m) longer than the other one. 

So, I think, if you are in a good condition in context of difficulty there is no difference between both Via Ferratas.

Conclusion


And what I want to say is, that you always should not only watch at the level of difficulty. Also take a look to the complete requirements of a Via Ferrata. A route in the difficulty of "B" might be easy, but it also might include other alpine difficulties and a Via Ferrata with a very high valuation might not be so hard. But always take care about correct planning, time and risk management, which will be my next post. Stay tuned :-)

Keine Kommentare:

Kommentar veröffentlichen